Why measuring is not just two numbers
Width and drop are the numbers everyone knows. What often decides whether a blind works is everything around them: what sticks out, what is out of square, and what the window does when it opens. A made-to-measure blind is cut to the figures you supply, so it is worth getting them spot on, as a small error cannot be trimmed on the day.
This is a checklist of what makes a window awkward, and what each one means in practice.
The checklist
1. Walls and frames that are not square
Older houses, in particular, often have openings that are slightly wider at the top than the bottom. Measure at the top, middle and bottom for width, and left, middle and right for drop. If the three numbers differ, a blind fitted inside the recess has to suit the narrowest, and the gap on the other side is visible.
2. Shallow reveals
A reveal is the depth of the recess. If it is too shallow, a blind cannot sit inside it, and the headrail will stick out. Outside fitting on the wall or frame is the usual alternative.
3. Handles and window furniture
Handles, stays and locks stand proud of the glass. A blind that closes against a handle can get damaged or may not sit flat. Some windows can take a spacer or a different bracket, and some cannot.
4. Windows that open inwards
Tilt-and-turn and inward-opening casements swing into the room. A blind hung too close will be hit by the sash. You may need a blind fitted to the frame so that it moves with the window, or one hung well clear.
5. Bay windows
Bays have angles, and each angle may not be what the plan suggests. Blinds for bays are usually made separately for each section, and the corner needs a gap so the blinds do not clash. You also need to decide whether to fit inside each recess or across the whole bay.
6. Sills, radiators and shelves
A deep sill, a radiator below the window or a shelf in the recess changes how far a blind can drop. A blind that reaches the sill but is not designed to go over a radiator can trap heat and may mark.
7. Arched, round and angled windows
Shaped windows often need something a little different from a standard blind. Tell us what you have, and we'll confirm what is possible, which may include shutters, a curtain or a fixed covering.
8. Roof windows and skylights
Roof windows need blinds made for the specific window, and the model has to be identified. Our guide to identifying your roof window explains how. See roof blinds.
9. Conservatory glazing
Roofs and large panes behave differently from walls, and the heat and structure matter. See conservatory blind choices.
10. Trickle vents and obstructions
Many modern windows have a vent along the top of the frame. A blind headrail fixed over it can block airflow or the vent cover. Fixing positions need to be planned around it.
How to take your own rough measurements
You do not have to measure for a quotation, but a rough sketch helps you and us.
- A steel tape works best, rather than a fabric one.
- Measure the width of the recess at three heights and the drop at three positions.
- Note the reveal depth.
- Draw the window, and mark any handles, vents, sills or radiators.
- Write down which way each opening part swings.
- Take photos from straight on and from the side.
Think of these as a helpful guide. For a made-to-measure blind, a precise measure is worth waiting for.
Inside, outside, or a mix
An inside fit looks neat but needs depth and square edges. An outside fit tolerates uneven walls and gives better coverage but sits proud. Often the answer is a mix, with different choices in different rooms. If you're thinking about a frame-fitted option, read the compatibility guide.
Why we measure in person
A photo cannot show reveal depth or whether a frame is square. We come to you across Stockton-on-Tees and wider Teesside, and we check the opening, the furniture and the way the window works. The measure is free and the quotation comes before you commit, so you only go ahead once you are happy. Book a free measure, or read how a free measure works.
