The right fixing depends on what is behind the surface
A blind is only as secure as what it is screwed into. A bracket that holds well in solid brick can pull out of plasterboard if it is the wrong fixing, and a tile can crack if it is drilled without care. This guide covers the common surfaces in UK homes and what to think about for each. It is general advice only. If a blind is heavy, a window is large or you are unsure, a fitter is happy to help.
Start by finding out what you have
Before you drill, tap the wall and look closely. Solid brick or block sounds dull and hard. Plasterboard on studs can sound hollow. A lintel above a window is often solid, but not always. Behind a surface there may be pipes or cables, particularly near switches, sockets and above kitchen worktops. A cable and pipe detector is a sensible tool to own, and it is worth using one before you put a drill into a wall or ceiling you do not know.
Surface by surface
Plastered brick or block
This is the easiest case. Use a masonry bit and a wall plug that is designed for the screw size, then drive in the screw. Keeping the hole clean helps, because dust can stop the plug from gripping. Blinds like roller blinds are light enough for this to be straightforward, though a wide blind still puts a load on the brackets.
Plasterboard
Plasterboard on its own is weak, and ordinary plugs may not hold. Look for fixings made for hollow walls, and where possible find a stud or timber behind the board. A heavy blind, such as a wooden blind, needs a firm fixing, not just the board. If the only option is a hollow wall, check the weight rating of the fixing against the blind.
Tiled surfaces
Tile is hard and brittle. Drill through it with a bit made for the job, start slowly with the drill on a low speed, and use masking tape to help the bit grip. It is best to skip the hammer setting, since it can crack the tile. Aim for the grout line only if the fixing hole will still be secure, and check what is behind the tile. Bathrooms and kitchens often have a lot of services in the wall, so take care.
Timber, including window boards and frames
Timber is straightforward, since a screw can bite directly. Use a pilot hole to stop splitting, particularly close to an edge, and check the screw length so it does not break through the other side. Solid timber lintels and frames are a good place to fix lighter blinds.
Ceilings
Ceiling fixings carry the blind's weight from above, so it pays to get them right. Look for joists, and fix into timber where possible. Plasterboard-only ceilings are poor for anything heavy. If you plan to hang a blind over a bay or from a ceiling track, ask a fitter to check.
uPVC and metal frames
These are thin, and screws can fail to hold or damage the profile. There are fixing options that avoid drilling, such as frame-fitted blinds. See our Perfect Fit blinds page for details.
Matching the fixing to the load
- Light blinds such as small rollers and pleated blinds usually place less strain on a fixing.
- Heavier blinds such as wooden blinds and wide blinds of any kind put more load on the brackets, so the fixing and the surface matter more.
- Operating forces matter. A blind that is pulled or lowered many times a day needs a firmer fixing than one that sits still.
Use the screws and plugs recommended in the product instructions where they are supplied. If you're replacing them, choose ones rated for the weight of the blind and the type of surface, and check sizes match before you mix them.
Tools worth having
- A cable, pipe and stud detector.
- A drill with variable speed.
- The right bits for masonry, tile and timber.
- A spirit level, so the blind hangs straight.
- A pencil and masking tape for marking and stopping the bit from slipping.
- Dust sheets and a vacuum or dustpan for cleaning up.
- Safety glasses and a dust mask.
Handy things to keep in mind
- Checking the surface before choosing a plug.
- Keeping drill holes a little away from tile edges and the corner of a recess.
- Marking the position with the level before drilling.
- Tightening screws firmly but gently, as over-tightening can strip a plug or crack a bracket.
- Finding something solid behind old, crumbling plaster before fixing.
Cords and children
Fixing brackets are one part of safety. Cords and chains also need to be secured so they cannot form a loop within reach of a child. Our child safety page covers what to consider.
We're happy to help
If the wall is awkward, the blind is heavy or you would rather not take chances, we can help. Book a free measure and we'll look at the surface and talk through the fixing with you.
