Measuring for a made-to-measure blind is very doable, and it helps to take a little care. A blind is cut to the numbers you give, so a small slip can mean a blind that does not fit. This guide shows a careful way to do it. It also explains why, at Boro, we are always happy to measure for you.
Before you start
A steel tape measure works best, as cloth tapes can stretch and sag. You'll also want a pencil, paper and a stepladder if the window is high. Writing every figure down at once is a great habit, as it saves relying on memory.
Decide first where the blind will go. A blind inside the opening is measured differently from one outside it, and our guide to recess or exact fit helps you choose.
Measuring for a recess fit
- Width. Measure across the opening at the top, the middle and the bottom. Windows are rarely square, so the three figures often differ. Record all three.
- Height. Measure the drop on the left, the middle and the right, from the top of the opening to the cill. Record all three.
- Depth. Measure how deep the recess is, from the glass to the room side of the reveal. Note anything that sticks out, such as a handle or vent.
- Use the smallest width and in most cases the longest height you recorded, and then talk to us before ordering. The right allowance depends on the range, so we're happy to take care of the deductions.
Measure to the nearest millimetre if you can. If a figure falls between two marks, it helps to think about which way to round. For a recess fit, rounding down on width is the safer error, because a blind that is a touch narrow still works, whereas a blind that is too wide cannot go in.
Measuring for an outside fit
- Measure the glass or the opening first, as above.
- Decide how far the blind should overlap on each side and above the opening. The overlap helps with light and with covering the frame.
- Add that overlap to your width and height, and check the wall for obstacles such as sockets, switches, pipes and coving.
- Measure where the blind will hang, and ensure the surface is solid enough to fix to.
Here rounding up is usually the safer error, since overlap is a good thing, but only until the blind meets something it should not touch.
Handy things to keep in mind
- Measuring twice. It helps to measure in different places. Differences between the top and bottom figures tell you the window is out of square.
- Measuring each window. Two windows in the same wall can differ by a few millimetres, so it helps to measure each one and label it.
- Noting what sticks out. Handles, stays, trickle vents and security locks can affect how a blind sits or rolls.
- Checking the depth. A recess that looks fine can be too shallow for the headrail of some blinds.
- Measuring the window itself. An old blind may not have been the right size, so the window is the best guide.
- Labelling width and height. Writing W and H next to every number keeps things clear.
- Leaving room for the control. Chains and cords need space, and they should hang out of reach of children. See our child safety page.
Windows that need extra care
Bay windows, arched tops, skylights, conservatories and tilt and turn windows all have their own quirks. Our guides to bay windows, tilt and turn windows and awkward windows cover them, and roof windows are best identified before anyone measures. For Perfect Fit blinds the frame matters more than the glass, so see our compatibility guide.
Check before you commit
Once you have your numbers, a quick sanity check is worthwhile. Do the three widths agree within a few millimetres? If not, take another look at the window. Hold your tape in the opening and picture the blind. Is there room for the headrail, and does the handle clear it? If anything feels off, just ask us.
It also helps to photograph the window with the tape in place, and to send us the picture and the figures. We can often spot a problem from a photo, though we are only able to stand behind figures we have taken ourselves.
Why a free measure is the easy route
We're happy to help you with a self-measure, and a Boro free measure is the easiest and safest route. We measure with the product in mind, we know the allowances and clearances for each range, and we can see things that are easy to miss, such as an out-of-square opening or a handle that will foul a blind.
It also keeps things simple. We stand behind the measurements we take ourselves. If you measure and order from your own figures, the figures are yours, so if a figure is a little off the blind will be too. That's why we suggest the free measure for anything expensive, awkward or hard to replace.
If you're comfortable and the window is simple, measure carefully, round with care, check your figures and talk to us before you order. If you have any doubt, book a free measure. Our page on how the free measure works explains what happens on the day.
